When studying waves, it is important to note that while it appears the water is moving forward, only a small amount of water is actually moving.
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A barrier spit is a landform made up of material deposited in a long ridge extending away from the coast.
These partially block the mouth of a bay, but if they continue to grow and cut off the bay from the ocean, it becomes a bay barrier.
The first occurs when the crests and troughs between two waves align and they combine. Waves can also cancel each other out though when a crest meets a trough or vice-versa.
Eventually, these waves do reach the beach and the differing size of breakers hitting the beach is caused by interference farther out in the ocean.
The wavelength, or horizontal size of the wave, is determined by the horizontal distance between two crests or two troughs.
The vertical size of the wave is determined by the vertical distance between the two. Waves can vary in size and strength based on wind speed and friction on the water's surface or outside factors such as boats.Waves are the forward movement of the ocean's water due to the oscillation of water particles by the frictional drag of wind over the water's surface.Waves have crests (the peak of the wave) and troughs (the lowest point on the wave).The small wave trains created by a boat’s movement on the water are called wake.By contrast, high winds and storms can generate large groups of wave trains with enormous energy.Depositional coastlines are found along areas with gentle relief and a lot of available sediment.