Creative Digital Director The Milan collections kicked off with a lunch, hosted by Matteo Renzi, the Italian prime minister, in the studio where the sets and costumes for La Scala are created and archived.
It was a magnificent beginning to an energized week.
For that brand, and indeed for Italian fashion, hard and sexy seems a lifetime ago.
The Gucci revolution sort of defines Milan at this point.
Times have changed: This is a gentler and more soulful Milan.
And how fitting that the gathering preceded the Gucci show, where Alessandro Michele’s quirky bohemian scalawags are now favoring a punky monarchic look.
As the week wore on, the strain involved in pulling off this blend of the timeless and timely became the story—for me, at least.
A collection was either all about the ateliers and craftsmen (for example, Bottega Veneta’s 50th anniversary show with its empowering, lovely pieces) or the creation of streetwear stars and clothes made to stop traffic and paparazzi.
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With very few exceptions, all of the leading and emerging Italian designers were in attendance, and everyone seemed determined to present a unified, upbeat force.